Our favourite holiday destination in Libya was Ghadames, a beautiful Tuareg village in an oasis near the Algerian border. Whenever we visited, we felt we were stepping back into the past.
Ghadames Slave Market - in use until 1932We got to be on very good terms with the headman, Abdusalem, and he would kindly explain Tuareg customs to us.
On one visit, he described in great detail what happened when Tuaregs got married. He explained that, after the wedding, the bride would refuse to speak to the groom. Each day the latter had to bring her a special large silver ring and she would put it on one of her fingers, but she still wouldn’t speak. She would only start talking on the tenth day, after the groom had brought her a ring for every finger and thumb. For obvious reasons, the special rings were called “talking rings”. Sue was so fascinated by this custom that she made Abdusalem take us straight down to the village jeweller, where she bought several beautiful “talking rings”.
AbdusalemA few months later, we were back in Ghadames with a group of new teachers. As usual, Abdusalem graciously showed us around the village and described various customs. But he never mentioned the talking rings. Sue thought this was a shame and so she stepped forward. and the dialogue went something like this.
Sue: Tell them about the rings, Abdusalem.
Abdusalem: What rings?
Sue: The talking rings.
Abdusalem: Talking rings?
Sue: The ones you told us about last time we were here.
Abdusalem: What do you mean?
Sue: You know, the ones that the bridegroom gives to the bride after the wedding.
Abdusalem: He gives her rings?
Sue: Yes. She won’t speak. He has to give her a ring every day. Only when she has a ring on every finger and thumb will she start talking to him.
Abdusalem: By God, what an interesting custom! I’ve never heard about that before. Where did you say it happens?
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